Fit to Flatter: Pants
I’m not big on fashion “rules.” There are multiple factors that play into whether a look “works” or not; your height, weight, personality, personal shoe and fabric preferences…you get the idea! Most people want to feel like they look GOOD. Confidence builds when your clothes fit in flattering way.
Part of creating a flattering silhouette is about the balance and proportion between the pieces that create your look. Where a pant is hemmed, how full or skinny a skirt is, where a sleeve stops, all play a big part in this. One of the most popular questions I’m asked is, “Where do I hem these pants and what shoe do I wear with them?” If you’ve been asking this question, this is the blog you’ve been waiting for!
THE SKINNY
Whether we’re talking about a skinny jean, chino, or dress pant, the “rules” are the same. The pant should skim just above the top of your ankle. If the pant is too long and gathers around your ankle it will look clunky and awkward. If it is too short, you begin to get into that dangerous and unflattering “capri” territory that widens your calves and chops the length of your legs. Hemming the pant just above the ankle also compliments a wide variety of shoe styles!
Shoes to wear with skinnies: Flats, loafers and oxfords, sneakers, pumps, sandals, boots and booties.
I know it’s hard to think about boots and booties when it’s hot as satan’s skillet right now, but I might as well address it because come fall, I get a lot of questions about what boots to wear with skinny jeans! Because there are so many boots out there, it’s not a simple answer, but here are your general guidelines:
Tall and over the knee boots: jeans tuck in.
Booties with low shaft (see photo): jeans should skim the top of the boot. I like to cuff it for more casual feel, but you can also leave clean.
Booties with higher shaft: jeans may tuck in or outside the boot. Use your best judgement!
Trouser, Bootcut, and Flare
Trousers, bootcut and flare bottoms are very different in style and purpose, but they all have one thing in common; volume. There is more fullness to the lower leg of the pant. To maximize shoe options (flats and heels), and therefore more potential outfits (yes hunny!), there is only one place I recommend to hem these styles.
When wearing a flat, the back hem should graze just above the floor. This will create a fuller break across the top of the foot. (A break is where the pant naturally folds across the foot because it “breaks” the line of the pant.) Some people prefer no break, i.e. a shorter hem, but that will limit your ability to wear a heel with them. Once you’ve hemmed the pant to wear with a flat, when you wear it with a heel, there will be no break, but you’ve expanded your options! You should be able to get away with wearing around a 3” heel, but if your heels are higher, you’ll likely need to choose whether you want the pants to be worn primarily with flats or heels.
When you visit your tailor take both shoes you think you’ll wear with them the most. They should be able to guide you about where to hem if I’m not there (wink, wink).
Shoes for trousers, bootcut, and flare styles: Pointy toe flats (rounded toes feel too frumpy), pumps, stacked heel boots or sandals, wedges. Sneakers are also a cool, trendy look with these pants, but keep in mind “cool” doesn’t always equal flattering!
STRAIGHT
I apologize for not having a photo here, but I don’t personally own any straight pants! Here’s the thing, there is a wide variety between designers as to what they consider straight. One brand’s “straight” is another brand’s “skinny”! Treat a straight pant similar to a skinny; hem it somewhere between the top of the ankle or down toward the top of the foot. Avoid bunching at the ankle or going too short. The more tapered the pant, the closer it should be to grazing the ankle. Straight pants and jeans are a great option for slimmer silhouette if you have wider calves!
TRENDS
Fashion constantly reinvents itself to keep things fresh and moving forward and right now there are some trends that may or may not be for you, but I think it’s fun to experiment!
The Cropped Bootcut/Flare
Proportion is particularly important with these cropped flare pants. They are cropped, but you don’t want them too short (and back into capri-land!). I’ve found that ones that hit right around where your calve begins to narrow into your ankle are good, down to where you’d hem your skinnies. This really depends on your height and the length of your legs.
Shoes for cropped flares: sneakers, slides, stacked heel mules, chunky, wide-strap sandals.
Culottes
Culottes are a wide-leg style pant that resembles a skirt. Light weight and flowy these are a comfortable and a refreshing change of pace from summer skirts and dresses! Culottes technically can be hemmed anywhere from the knee, down to mid calf. I’ve found that they are most flattering where your calf begins to taper down into your ankle.
Shoes for culottes: Heeled sandals (love a mule!), slides, pumps, and tall boots (when it’s cooler!). Extra points if you can pull off the cool-girl sneaker with these too!
You know what they say, know the rules then you can break the rules! Have fun with fashion and don’t overthink it too much, if you are then you should probably contact me! Happy hemming y’all!